Addressing Race and Inclusivity in the Fashion Industry

Over the past few months, discussions around diversity and inclusivity have gained significant traction, driven by global events like the US election, Black Lives Matter, Pride Month, and Black History Month. These conversations have highlighted the need for greater inclusivity in various sectors, particularly in fashion. Consumers are increasingly seeking brands that reflect the diverse world they live in and the values they hold. But how does race intersect with the fashion industry, and what needs to change?

The Shift in Brand-Consumer Relationships

The rise of streetwear and sportswear brands has brought attention to the power of exclusivity and the growing demand for personalized communication between brands and consumers. Today’s customers want brands to form a deeper, more meaningful connection with them. The notion that fashion is only about clothing has been replaced by the expectation that brands are representations of identities and lifestyles. In this new landscape, fashion brands are expected to go beyond offering products; they must also be a reflection of the diverse world in which consumers live.

The Impact of Black Lives Matter on Fashion

The Black Lives Matter movement has significantly impacted how industries, including fashion, address inclusivity. As Virgil Abloh pointed out, the issue of diversity in fashion is deeply embedded and often goes unnoticed within the industry. In 2017, only 8.7% of the designer fashion industry workforce was comprised of Black, Asian, and minority ethnic (BAME) professionals, underscoring the need for change.

To address this, it is crucial to first recognize the problem and understand its roots. One of the underlying causes of this lack of diversity in the industry stems from systemic racism in education. In the UK, 77.3% of students in 2018/2019 were white, while only 6.8% were Black. This educational disparity creates a barrier for Black creatives, limiting their access to opportunities in fashion design and production.

Fast Fashion: A Contributing Factor

While designer fashion has its challenges, the fast fashion industry presents additional concerns. The fashion and textile industry employs around 430 million people globally, with a significant portion in countries like India, Bangladesh, and China. Unfortunately, poor working conditions in these key production areas have been a longstanding issue, with the majority of garment workers being women of color who often work long hours for subpar wages. These exploitative conditions mirror the colonial attitudes that have historically permeated the industry.

Despite efforts to raise awareness and improve conditions, many brands still prioritize cost-cutting over fair labor practices, continuing the cycle of exploitation in their supply chains.

Progress Toward Inclusivity in Fashion

Although there are many issues to address, the fashion industry is making strides in promoting inclusivity. Organizations like Good On You and Labour Behind the Label are educating brands on improving their supply chains and ensuring workers’ rights are upheld. Furthermore, the conversation around representation has expanded beyond just models to include professionals across various sectors such as design, editorial, and supply.

Efforts to showcase Black creatives in fashion have also gained momentum. Platforms like The Fashion and Race Database and the Black in Fashion Council offer a space for Black professionals to highlight their work, fostering a sense of empowerment and community.

The Road Ahead

Despite the progress made, the fashion industry still faces significant challenges. The predominant beauty standard in Western culture remains a white one, and tokenism continues to permeate marketing and imagery. The lack of representation in leadership roles further highlights the industry’s shortcomings. As Business of Fashion contributors Jason Campbell and Henrietta Gallina argue, true change will only come when Black people are in positions of power within the fashion industry.

Conclusion

The conversation about race and inclusivity in fashion is far from over. However, it is clear that meaningful change requires a commitment to education, systemic shifts, and a willingness to embrace diversity. Brands that authentically represent and support diverse communities are the ones that will thrive in the future. Fashion businesses that are transparent about their challenges and work to create inclusive environments will not only succeed but also lead the industry toward a more equitable future.

As individuals and as an industry, we must continue to educate ourselves, support diverse talent, and advocate for the necessary changes that will make fashion a truly inclusive space for all.